How many slings for sport climbing reddit 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. Not sure what you need the slings, prussik, and locking biners for if you are just sport climbing. Keep slack out of your static anchors. and shorter) are a tweener size that wouldn't be used often; some climbers use them for tying off pitons. Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. then sport and maybe traditional if you want to. With a grimly increasing frequency, there have been accidents—some fatal—at sport crags due to miscommunication between a climber up at the anchors and their belayer down on the ground. A cordelette, some double length slings and a bunch of carabiners should be enough for the few routes at the Trapps that are easily accessible from the top. If you're sport climbing, in most cases there'll be two bolts, or chains or something - you can (usually) clip a quickdraw to each, and then clip both to your rope to lower off (your point #1). Tying a knot in a sling, especially in Dyneema slings, can reduce the strength by up to half, meaning the sling itself may end up being the Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. Hi I would like to build a quad anchor for some sport multi pitch. The home of Climbing on reddit. rebel, ozone, top gun) and slings at fair prices, haven't tried out their biners and crashpads yet Mar 3, 2023 · A standard sport climbing rack consists of 12 draws, usually 6 shorter draws and 6 longer ones. 10 climber there's still stuff to do but the climbing schools dominate the easier walls and there's so much traffic that most of it is polished to glass. I carry about 8-10 at the Gunks. But your climbing gear settings definitely need load lifters and large space. Clip another QD between the bolts. Even then, I prefer a draw that's flexible. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. As you place gear, refer back to the book to evaluate your placements. As others have said below, El Cap/Yosemite has bolts at specific points for anchors, but is all trad and aid climbing with the addition of hauling. Even if that relationship is linear (doubtful), that means you have minimum 210 climbing days before approaching 50% strength, based on exposure. Sports climbing is more popular on certain types of rock eg limestone and slate whereas trad climbing tends to take place on rock where cracks are more likely to form eg dolerite, gritstone & granite You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. rebel, ozone, top gun) and slings at fair prices, haven't tried out their biners and crashpads yet I climb a lot of wandering routes in the Sierras so I take 10 60cm slings made into alpines. Generally, if you aren’t buying from someone you trust, or are experienced enough to inspect these properly, I’d steer clear. 305 votes, 96 comments. 11+ to 5. 20 extra feet of cord has come in super handy for me enough times in weird situations - for ascending Sport; I like fat slings (to grab on to and doesn't twist), a nice gate action (some are too stiff, some too loose), favorite gate type for the rope side is a banana-shaped wire (nice and wide so the biner doesn't rotate instead of the rope clipping in) and fat carabiners that last. Sometimes it's actually cheaper to buy sport draws and cannibalize the carabiners. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. If each bolt had 4 slings chained together and the anchor point set up there then it would have been a lot less distance from the cliff and a lot less rope drag. Chart of the results of me trying to find an outdoor sport climbing partner this weekend Because trad climbing is more gear intensive than sport climbing, it is also more time-consuming. Sport climbing has prefixed gear (bolts) where “all” the climber has to do is clip a QuickDraw ( two carabiners and a short sling). offsets nuts are really nice to have Guidelines like "Replace your slings every 3 years" are not very helpful. Start with trad and all the knowledge that comes with it. Weight each one (I recommend clipping the piece to your belay loop with a sling and bouncing up and down in your harness). I like to use a runner-runner (aka sling-sling) to free up some biners and room on my harness. 95% of the time the gear (I do actually also carry 6mm tech cord in old school cordelette form most of the time on long multipitch with gear anchors, especially when there are ledges with natural features to sling/tie off or the pitches are true rope-stretchers. I recommend using a metal paint pen (like Edding 750, 751 or 780) for hard goods. He suggested buying Alpine Quickdraws as opposed to regular quickdraws if I will eventually get into trad climbing. 35L version with that gear setting will be painful for your shoulder and painful to you lack of enough space. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. It's amazing if you're climbing hard enough - ideally 6c and up (at least 5. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. If no: go for an all-around option. As others have said. 26 votes, 26 comments. I have pretty much all of the rest of the gear for sport climbing though. If you're a 5. thread. 100% useful in so many ways, I will always be reslinging with a 2x dyneema loop. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. This is a basic sport climbing rack plus some friends and nuts. You'll want the following for sport climbing: 15 to 20 quickdraws (Keep in mind you need two for the anchors) A harness (guessing you already have) Belay device of your preference (if you go with Gri-Gri or similar bring an ATC style device as well to rappell) Personal tether system - Either slings or a PAS would work well i was referring to a knotted sling, but it doesn't matter either way. I wouldn't get dynema slings, but would get aramid, 1. I have a different experience with the post-2018 Adjama: I am right in the sweet spot for the medium size but the gear loops on the left are not symmetrical to the right side and are too far back, the gear loop stitching is loose (lots of reports of people losing their rack of cams on climbs), and hanging comfort is no better or even worse than Petzl's entry-level harness, the Corax. 4 to 3). For most sport climbing, this is a very important consideration as super thin slings can be nearly impossible to grab and hold onto while you clip. In climbing your max sustained load is going to be approximately body weight, or maybe twice that if you have 2 people hanging from an anchor, say 400lb (2kN). If I need to I bring my trad quickdraws or alpine draws (really long or wandering climbs). We didn't have a second rope to extend the anchor point. Aug 18, 2019 · It's safe to say that rarely will the sling be the weak link in your safety chain, although worth noting is that there are many different instances where the strength of the sling can be compromised. If that's your SWL, using the 5:1 ratio, you'd want 2000lb (~10kN) rated gear. This means that it took at least 70 climbing days for the slings to decrease in strength by 16%. you don't need so many locking caras, but get more photons or eq. Which I do see myself headed into. Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. For trad, however, much lighter draws work better—featherweight biners on thin, supple slings to reduce bulk and weight and provide a more flexible attachment to nuts (think Black Diamond Oz). At the anchors you will want at least two bolts and hopefully 3 if you can. I would hope that you have a guide though for a bit to learn about all the basics of sport climbing. It can be racked in just the same way. It would be silly to save 30 bucks and make your experience significantly worse for many And i bought these for sport routes and didn't care about the weight. in ways that may be difficult to tell during inspection. Hi all, Last year I bought some trad gear (1x cam from 0. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Use a sling or like 2 bucks on accessory cord to make a Purcell Prusik. Those are made to mark metals durably. without load lifters will not that difficult. The length of tethers varies. A year or so later when I was climbing in the alpine, the extra pound mattered. I recently started climbing outdoors. While one racks up or sorts gear, the other can flake or coil the rope. Also have some alpine draws (a 25cm qd is not an alpine draw). Related Climbing Sports forward back r/woodworking Woodworking is your worldwide home for discussion of all things woodworking, carpentry, fine furniture, power tools, hand tools, and just about anything else about making - anything - from trees! 21 votes, 49 comments. Sounds like you're describing alpine draws. This. I'd rather spend $20 more dollars early on than always have shitty If you pack not that heavy like for indoor climbing wall, light climbing plan, etc. Lots of folks in their first year of climbing outdoors might log 10 days, while avid weekend warriors should be getting in around 50 days per year, and full time guides are likely to climb outside more than 200 days per year. Members Online • J3RB3AR Rope if it's multipitch, or some draws or slings if sport. Dynema slings can be used for that. Leading in sport climbing (while still fun) does not require much thought: place the quickdraw in the hanger. I also take 2 120's plus a longer cordalette and a 240 dynema sling for anchors. For example, specialty tethers like the Petzl Connect Adjust or Metolius Personal Anchor System come in at about 38 inches (around 95 centimeters). Mar 13, 2024 · For sport climbing, you want full-size, wear-resistant biners on stiff, beefy slings (think Petzl Express or Trango Smooth draw). 6-8 60cm slings, doubled. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. If you are going to Peterskill, then I'd add some static line (75-100' should be enough to be able to top rope anything there, less and you'll be a little more limited). But trad requires you to think about how you are protecting yourself. Posted by u/ptw_tech - 5 votes and 14 comments In most cases, when people are talking about tying in with the rope as opposed to a PAS, it's when tying into an anchor for multipitch climbing. A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems like a good idea. Is this normal? The idea of having so many slings linked end to end like that just sounds strange. a 60cm sling, a 120cm sling, 1 screwgate carbina, a 30 or 40m rope, 6-8 quickdraws. At most sport crags, two quickdraws works fine for anchor. The prussik cord can be useful depending on cleaning ethics in the area (rappelling vs. Leading on gear, cleaning a pitch, and re-racking all take longer than they do when sport climbing. Extra-long slings (180-240cm/72-96 in. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic . 20+ pitches of soft sport. IMO, use alpine draws for trad climbing. Average Costs (48") slings: $15-$30 many seasons. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' Aug 18, 2019 · Preferences vary according to what people intend to use them for, but on our multi-pitch climbing rack we typically carry 2-3 quadruple length slings, and as many double-length runners as we feel like we will need, anywhere from 6-18 depending on our strategy for the climb. 240 cm is the biggest standard sewn sling size and is the perfect amount of material Assuming I'm only doing sport and the bolts at my local crag are always within a foot or so of each other and well maintained (and even in sketchier situations), I can see no advantages to using something more complicated like a quad or a sliding-X or a sling with a figure-8 in it or whatever. dzfn prdg luife slqkkdse pvud swoat ezl qjwpw wmokxs lxzwn ovabnr hqrnpn qzmewn fugv uwj